4.5 out of 5.0 stars4.5

Another short review about the best way to travel between Rome’s airport at Fiumicino and central Rome at the Roma Termini railway station.

I have used this service virtually every time I am in Rome and I cannot fault it. It’s not cheaper than catching one of the bus services that run the same route to Roma Termini. If time is important the Leonardo Express is the best solution as the buses take about twice as long to get to Fiumicino and traffic can be a problem depending on the time of day. Also the buses do not run as frequent. Taxis are expensive and Ubers although more competitive are still prone by those road issues. If your destination is not central Rome or the area surrounding Roma Termini then Ubers are the best option. Check their app for destinations and prices.

Cost and how to buy tickets

The train ticket price hasn’t changed for many years and it is still at Euro 14. Tickets can be purchased at the counter on the station concourse at Fiumicino Airport and at Roma Termini, or via ticket machines or online. I usually buy a ticket at the counter at the airport and when I have access to data will buy online via my smartphone (iPhone) using the Trenitaliaapp. If you have a SIM already activated buy the ticket online for the next train. You can pay using credit or debit card or another payment method, PayPal, Apple Pay, Amazon Pay, etc. Check-in via the app before accessing the platform and scan the QR code at the gate. Paper tickets need to be validated and can be done by getting them stamped at the green and white (with a red backing) validating machines. If you don’t validate your ticket you can be fined by the ticket inspector. This regardless if you are a local or a visitor (tourist). Inspectors speak English and so do the ticket vendors at the ticket office. If you have any questions ask any of the Trenitalia personnel if unsure about something.

When at the platforms make sure you board the Leonardo Express which is well distinguished from other trains by its green, white and red paint job and by Leonardo Express written on the sides. The others are the Regionale trains that will not go direct to Roma Termini and requires a change of trains. These trains are good if your destination is a suburban station. Tickets for these trains are cheaper at Euro 8. You can still get to Roma Termini but you’ll need to alight at one of the preceding stations and catch another Regionale train. These trains in Rome are basically for commuters so depending on time of day are full of workers and students. Space for luggage is minimal.

The Leonardo Express as its name implies is a direct service and the carriages have plenty of luggage space. There are also Frecce high-speed trains, namely the Frecciarossa. These are more expensive so do not book a ride on them to Roma Termini unless you are travelling to Florence, Bologna, Padova and Venice on one train or to Naples on another. Same from Roma Termini to Fiumicino Airport. The Leonardo Express runs mostly on time; every 15 minutes in both directions most of the day. Check the Trenitalia website or app for exact times.

The ETR 425 5-carriage train sets are made by Alstom and are still in good condition and kept reasonably clean by onboard staff. Seats are comfortable for the 32-odd minute ride and are similar to those found on Regionale trains that travel longer distances. Overall it is a very good service that hasn’t let me down.

Cleanliness	4.5 out of 5.0 stars4.5
Comfort	4.5 out of 5.0 stars4.5
Facilities	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
Punctuality	5.0 out of 5.0 stars5.0
Service	5.0 out of 5.0 stars5.0
Staff	5.0 out of 5.0 stars5.0
Value	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
WiFi	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0

4.2 out of 5.0 stars4.2

Efficient and hassle-free train service

This is not so much a review, as I’ve done that twice before, but some comments and pointers. Just so to know, I have used this service for many years and continue to use it every time I arrive and leave Rome. It’s not the cheapest, but I find it to be the most efficient and hassle-free. So…

I find it hard to believe some people rate the service very lowly. First of all the Leonardo Express is a train service. It runs to and from the Rome airport at Fiumicino. It’s called Express because there are no stops in between. It’s not a bullet train. It’s not the Orient Express either. Occasionally it will not run at full speed and there are various reasons why. It could be because there are workers on the line or signalling issues. I know a lot of vegetation on the sides of the tracks has been cleared over the last two years. The service however does run by its timetable of every 15 minutes. Possibly a minute or so late. That can happen. What I say is, be happy you are getting to destination with no traffic hassles etc. If you are worried, and I’ve said this before, leave 20~30 minutes earlier. That way you will not be disappointed should the train not travel at your desired speed. 

Ticket scams. Do not buy tickets from unofficial vendors. Actually there shouldn’t be. Buy tickets at the vending machines. These operate in many languages. Or go to the Trenitalia counter. Even at the newsagent/newsstands. But only buy tickets and don’t get into any other discussion about taxis, buses, shuttles, your destination, etc.

With tickets the most important thing is to validate them. Do so in the green, white (and red) Trenitalia validating machines on the platforms or concourse. When your ticket is validated it will be good for 90 minutes. If you bought your ticket online you do not need validating. Online tickets have a time when they should be used. I think from memory it should be within 4 hours. You cannot use the ticket for an earlier train. The cost for Leonardo Express is Euro 14, no more, no less. I always buy mine on the day. I have a favourite newsagent/newsstand at Termini or I buy it from the Trenitalia counter at Fiumicino. The types of ticket vary: boarding pass sized card (Trenitalia counter), bus ticket style small card (vending machines) or a docket style ticket on thermal paper (newsagents/newsstands). All need to be validated. One last thing. The online ticket is also valid for 90 minutes after the QR code is scanned by the train conductor/inspector. That ticket cannot be used again for another run. Logically.

Do not confuse the commuter train that departs Fiumicino and stops at all stations except Roma Termini. The Leonardo Express is easy to identify. It says so on the side of the carriage. It is also red, white and green. The commuter train is recognisable by the double-decker carriages. If you are staying anywhere near Roma Trastevere, Roma Ostiense, Roma Tuscolana, Roma Tiburtina and Roma Nomentana, this is the train you should catch. There are other stations as well but those mentioned are the main ones. The commuter train (FL1) cost is Euro 8 but remember it does not stop at Roma Termini. Expect the commuter train to be well patronised. Also luggage space will be an issue. 

When travelling to the airport and your destination is Terminal 3, you have three options to get there. I’ll mention all, but the third is a little tricky. Since the remodelling of the Terminal 3 facade back in 2016 the walkway to the terminal is no more. It was ripped down so the original glass facade design could be reinstated. 

The first option: leave the station platform through the exit gates and walk about 20 metres (60 feet), turn right and go down a set of escalators and then up again until you reach Terminal 3 Arrivals. Go right and then left again in a short distance to a set of new escalators to the Departures concourse. This is the shortest and best method. Second option, and always undercover, is go straight ahead from the station platform and turn right at the overhead signs T1, T2 and T3. You’ll see travelators. After a couple of minutes further up you’ll need to go left at a junction. If you don’t you’ll end up at T2 or T1. There are signs overhead. When you arrive inside the terminal building turn left and go down a set of escalators. You are now in Terminal 3 Departures. The third option is mentioned only because it exists, but I don’t recommend it when going to Terminal 3. Use the same method as in option one but as soon as you’ve done one set of escalators going down you need to exit to the right at an entrance/exit. This will take you outside into the open. Cross the service roads at the zebra crossings. You are now at Terminal 3 Arrivals. From here you’ll need to go left and find the escalators mentioned in option one that will take you upstairs to the Departures concourse. These will be on your right. 

That last option is best done from Terminal 3 Arrivals to the station. In other words in the other direction. I do this undercover never going outside and crossing the service roads. As soon as you exit Customs go right. Follow the overhead sign for the train station. You’ll come to a set of escalators to your left. Go down then up again to the station platform. You’ll see vending machines and the Trenitalia ticket office to the right. This is basically the reverse of option one (to Terminal 3 Departures) minus the escalators going up to Terminal 3 Departures. 

If your destination is Florence, Bologna or Venice. There are four daily Frecciargento trains (fast trains) to/from Fiumicino Airport. The times currently are: 

Arrivals to Fiumicino Airport: 
Frecciargento 9401/9490 at 09.52
Frecciargento 9415/9492 at 13.52 

Departures from Fiumicino Airport: 

Frecciargento 9491/9422 at 11.08

Frecciargento 9493/9438 at 15.08

These trains need to be pre-booked. Your seat will be allocated. Should you miss the train you will need to see the customer service agent at the Trenitalia counter. Your ticket will be changed to next available train either at Fiumicino or at Roma Termini. You may have to buy a Leonardo Express ticket to Roma Termini though.

For more information on the Leonardo Express, timetable and tickets go to the Trenitalia website.

You can also check out my two reviews (6 December 2016 and 30 October 2017).

Update: The Frecciargento trains mentioned here no longer service Fiumicino Airport. The trains are now Frecciarossa and the timetable has changed. There is also a new service from/to Napoli Centrale.

Cleanliness	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
Comfort	4.5 out of 5.0 stars4.5
Facilities	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
Maintenance	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
Service	4.5 out of 5.0 stars4.5
Staff	4.5 out of 5.0 stars4.5
Value	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
WiFi	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0

4.1 out of 5.0 stars4.1

Still Best Way to/from Rome Fiumicino Airport

Have used this train service many times and have reviewed it before with lengthy explanations. One thing I must add since my review of November 2016 is that the walkway that used to go across to Terminal 3 has been pulled down. The façade at Terminal 3 has returned to its original design of mostly glass.

The walkway to Terminal 3 is now the same one that takes you to Terminals 1 and 2. So head straight ahead away from the train platforms and concourse until you come to what seems a dead end and turn right. The signs above will indicate T1, T2 and T3. This walkway has travelators and was the one I used back in my last review when they were doing works at T3.

In the reverse direction coming from Terminal 3 Arrivals to the train station, nothing has changed. There’s an underpass that will take you from the terminal to the platforms. You just have to go down a set of escalators and then up again.

The Leonardo Express is still the best way to get to central Rome and Roma Termini station. Price is still Euro 14 for adults. We were four leaving Rome in October 2017. I opted for the Leonardo Express because of its handiness, but if there are four of you and you want to save money you are better off catching a cab for Euro 48. Something your hotel can organise for you.

Buses also run from Roma Termini with prices as low as Euro 4 per person. I’ll stick to the Leonardo Express because I know it is efficient, you sit down and stow your luggage on the rack and in 30 odd minutes you are at Fiumicino Airport or vice versa. Also the trains run every 15 minutes.

Always remember though that your ticket needs to be validated in the green, white and red machines on the platform. Even the ones printed on paper at newsagents/newsstands. Hefty fines are in order. If you have an online digital version there are no issues with validating.

Another bit of advice. It’s been over a year now that you need to produce a ticket at the security checkpoints to enter the platforms at Roma Termini (and all major Italian city stations). There are two ways to get to the Leonardo Express. The first through one of several entrances along the main concourse, where all trains terminate and the second through the smaller single entrance on the southwest side of Termini at Via Giolitti which runs parallel with platform 24, the track where the Leonardo Express arrives/departs. 

Tickets can be bought from self service machines, at the counter, at newsagents (newsstands), at Tabacconists (where the white capital T on white background sign is displayed outside shops) and also online.

Don’t make silly remarks the Italian railways are out to rip you off. They don’t. Don’t be ignorant or feign ignorance. There are rules. As the Leonardo Express is considered a Regional train remember you must validate the ticket. If it is a digital one the QR code will be scanned by the inspector/controller. It’s that simple. I have written about this stuff before in a previous review published December 2016. Always read reviews and be informed.

For more information on the Leonardo Express, timetable and tickets go to the Trenitalia website.

Cleanliness	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
Comfort	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
Facilities	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
Service	5.0 out of 5.0 stars5.0
Staff	4.5 out of 5.0 stars4.5
Value	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
WiFi	3.5 out of 5.0 stars3.5

4.1 out of 5.0 stars4.1

Best Transport Option To/From Rome Airport

The easiest and safest way to and from the city centre and Fiumicino Airport. The cost is not the cheapest at Euro 14 or the service the most direct to your destination, as it will only take you to Roma Termini (Rome’s railway terminus) and not to any other station in between.

Buses to Termini cost less, but there’s always the concern about being caught in traffic. There are other trains from Fiumicino which will do all stations in between except depart and arrive at Roma Termini. They are the Regionale trains and are best used if you’re staying close to the Trastevere, Ostiense, Tuscolana and Tiburtina stations or if you aren’t in a hurry and don’t mind changing trains at Trastevere or Ostiense to get to Termini. These trains cost Euro 8 for each trip.

There is also a Frecciargento (fast train) twice a day to and from Venice, with stops at Roma Termini, Roma Tiburtina, Firenze Santa Maria Novella, Bologna Centrale, Padova, Venezia Mestre and Venezia Santa Lucia. Perfect if anyone wants to be in Florence in about two hours.

I’ve heard people criticize the ticketing system or the occasional slowness of the train. The tickets are available in multiple ways, online, by ticket machine, at the sales counter or at newsagents and tobacconists (where you see the sign with the white capital T on a blue background). All tickets except those bought online MUST be validated in the Trenitalia (oval-shaped green and white, with a tinge of red) machines before boarding. If you find that the validating machine or machines do not work approach the conductor or guard asap. You cannot self-validate your ticket by writing the time and date on it. The Leonardo Express is classified as a regional train and thus requires ticket validation.

Some may think the system is silly, old-fashioned or fraudulent. It is not. To keep it simple, ticket validating has to be done on all trains except the Freccie (Frecciarossa, …argento and …bianca) where seats are allocated at booking time. Also ALWAYS check your ticket after validating to see whether it is readable.

As for the speed of the train, it can get up to 150kph (just under 100mph), if required, but as on all railways there are times when there are unexpected events or maintenance works. Be patient and leave a half hour earlier if you can. On the many occasions I’ve travelled on the Leonardo Express only twice it ran a few minutes late. One time on the way to Fiumicino they had announced there would be a 20-minute delay. Asked the conductor why, it was because thieves had stolen copper wire from the track. The other time it was for workers safety. They were cutting back trees and shrubs on the side of the tracks. A delay of only ten minutes perhaps. Both times no real issues as I gave myself plenty of time to check-in.

As for the train itself the carriages are virtually new (at the time of writing). The seats are comfortable and there’s ample space for luggage on the racks.

When arriving or departing Fiumicino Airport, directions are pretty straight forward. Just follow the signs with the train icon when arriving and the terminal designations when departing. Of course directions will differ depending the terminal you use. For Terminal 3 where most international flights arrive it’s a sharp right turn out of Customs (after the baggage carousels). Follow the signs overhead until you reach an escalator on the left hand side going down. You will go up again to reach the concourse and platforms where you’ll also find the ticket office, ticket machines, etc.

Departing from Terminal 3 is also straightforward. Go straight ahead from the train platforms onto the overhead walkway (you’ll see the service road beneath) until you reach the terminal building then down the escalators to the T3 entrance sliding doors. There’s also a lift. As of November 2016, when I was there last (at the time of writing), those wanting to go to Terminal 3 were being detoured in the direction of Terminal 1 and 2 along the long walkway. It’s an extra 5~10 minute walk because of the renovation works at Terminal 3. This long walkway is now permanent to access Terminal 3 as the walkway that went directly across has been removed so the facade of Terminal 3 could be returned to its original design of a full glass curtain wall.

The other terminals, 1 and 2, use this same walkway to and from the train platforms. If in doubt look up the Aeroporti di Roma/Fiumicino website and download the maps.

For more information on the Leonardo Express, timetable and tickets go to the Trenitalia website.

There’s an updated review see: Leonardo Express (October 2017)

Cleanliness	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
Comfort	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
Facilities	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
Service	5.0 out of 5.0 stars5.0
Staff	4.5 out of 5.0 stars4.5
Value	4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
WiFi	3.5 out of 5.0 stars3.5